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HOW TO CARE YOUR PAINTINGS
CARING FOR YOUR PAINTINGS
Paintings may be objects of great beauty or of historical
importance, providing an important cultural link
with the past. They may have great monetary value
or have sentimental value to their owners. Whatever
the case, paintings are fragile creations that require
special care to assure their continued preservation.
Paintings consist of various layers. The paint is
applied to a support, typically canvas or wood,
which is first primed with a glue-sizing and/or
ground layer. Traditional paintings are finished
with a coat of varnish. Contemporary paintings,
naive, or folk art may not have a ground layer or
varnish coating. Paintings that do not have all
of the traditional layers may be more fragile and
susceptible to change or damage. The paint layers
can be made of pigments in oil, acrylic (or other
synthetics), encaustic (wax), tempera (egg), distemper
(glue), casein (milk), gouache (plant gum), or a
mixture of media. The paint can be applied on a
wide variety of supports. Although the most common
are canvas and wood, other supports include paper,
cardboard, pressed board, artist's board, copper,
ivory, glass, plaster, and stone. Paintings on canvas
are usually stretched over an auxiliary wood support.
An adjustable support is called a stretcher; a support
with fixed corners is called a strainer.
Paintings change over time. Some inevitable results
of aging, such as increased transparency of oil
paint or the appearance of certain types of cracks,
do not threaten the stability of a painting and
may not always be considered damage. One of the
most common signs of age is a darkened or yellowed
surface caused by accumulated grime or discolored
varnish. When a varnish becomes so discolored that
it obscures the artist's intended colors and the
balance of lights and darks, it usually can be removed
by a conservator, but some evidence of aging is
to be expected and should be accepted. However,
when structural damages occur in a painting such
as tears, flaking paint, cracks with lifting edges,
or mold, consult a conservator to decide on a future
course of treatment for your painting.
MAINTAINING A SUITABLE ENVIRONMENT
It is important to maintain a proper environment
for your paintings. The structural components of
a painting expand and contract in different ways
as the surrounding temperature and humidity fluctuate.
For example, the flexible canvas may become slack
or taut in a changing environment, while the more
brittle paint may crack, curl, or loosen its attachment
to the underlying layers. If a painting could be
maintained in an optimum environment, in one location
at a constant temperature and humidity level, many
of the problems requiring the services of a paintings
conservator could be prevented. Paintings generally
do well in environmental conditions that are comfortable
for people, with relative humidity levels between
40 and 60 percent. Environmental guidelines have
been developed for different types of materials.
Paintings on canvas may react more quickly to rising
and falling humidity levels than paintings on wood
panels, but the dimensional changes that can occur
in a wood panel can cause more structural damage.
Owners of panel paintings should be particularly
conscientious about avoiding unusually low or high
relative humidity and temperatures to prevent warping,
splitting, or breaking of the wood. Museums strive
to maintain constant temperature and humidity levels
for works of art, but even with expensive environmental
control systems this task can be difficult. In most
cases, gradual seasonal changes and small fluctuations
are less harmful than large environmental fluctuations.
Avoiding large fluctuations is very important. For
example, a painting stored in what would generally
be considered poor conditions (such as a cold, damp
castle) may remain structurally secure for centuries,
but begin to deteriorate rapidly if moved into "stable"
museum conditions simply because of the extreme
change in its environment.
One of the simplest and most important
preservation steps you can take is have protective
backing board attached to paintings. A Fome-Cor
(or archival cardboard backing) screwed to the reverse
of a painting will slow environmental exchange through
a canvas, keep out dust and foreign objects, and
protect against damage during handling. Be sure
that the backing board covers the entire back of
the picture; do not leave air vent holes, which
can cause localized environmental conditions and
lead to cracks in paint. The backing board should
be attached to the reverse of the stretcher or strainer,
not to the frame. Have a conservator or reputable
framer attach it for you.
DISPLAYING
PAINTINGS
The display of paintings requires careful consideration.
Direct sunlight can cause fading of certain pigments,
increased yellowing of varnish, and excessive heat
on the painting surface. It is best to exhibit paintings
on dividing walls within a building rather than
on perimeter walls where temperature fluctuations
will be greater and condensation can occur. If paintings
are placed on uninsulated exterior walls, it may
help to place small rubber spacers on the back of
the frame to increase air circulation.
Although a fireplace is often a focal spot for a
room, a painting displayed above a mantel will be
exposed to soot, heat, and environmental extremes.
Hanging paintings above heating and air conditioning
vents or in bathrooms with tubs or showers is also
inadvisable because the rapid environmental fluctuations
will be harmful. Select a safe place away from high
traffic and seating areas.
When lighting paintings, use indirect lighting.
Lights that attach to the top of the frame and hang
over the picture can be dangerous. These lights
cast a harsh glare, illuminate and heat the painting
unevenly, and can fall into the artwork causing
burns or tears. Indirect sunlight, recessed lighting,
or ceiling-mounted spotlights are best for home
installations. Halogen lamps are increasingly popular,
but halogen bulbs emit high levels of ultraviolet
light (the part of the spectrum that is damaging
to artworks) and should be fitted with an ultraviolet
filter when used near light-sensitive materials.
These bulbs also have been known to explode and
may pose a fire hazard. Tungsten lamps may be preferable
for home lighting.
HANDLING PROCEDURES
Pictures are usually safest when hanging on a wall,
provided that they are well framed, with the picture
and hanging hardware adequately secured. If you
must store a painting, avoid damp basements or garages,
where pictures can mold, and attics, which are very
hot in the summer. A good storage method is to place
the paintings in a closet with a stiff board protecting
the image side of each artwork and a backing board
attached to the reverse. Here again, a backing board
attached to the reverse can protect your painting.
Do not risk damaging your paintings by moving them
any more than is absolutely necessary. If you must
remove a painting from the wall or move it to another
room, clear the pathway of furniture and obstructions
and prepare a location to receive it. The frame
must be stable and secure. If it is old or there
is glazing (glass), ensure that it can withstand
being moved. Determine if you can lift the painting
safely by yourself. If the frame is massive or the
picture is wider than your shoulders, ask someone
to help you. If the painting is of a manageable
size, lift the frame with both hands by placing
one hand in the center of each side. Always carry
it with the image side facing you. Remove jewelry,
tie clips, belt buckles, or other clothing that
might scrape the surface. Hang paintings from picture
hooks (not nails) placed securely in the wall; a
heavy picture requires two hooks. Before hanging,
examine the back of the painting to ensure that
the hanging hardware is strong and secure. If the
painting is framed, the hardware should be attached
to the back of the frame, not to the stretcher or
strainer. If picture wire is used, attach a double
strand of braided wire to the sides of the frame
(not to the top edge) with "D" rings or mirror plate
hangers. These types of hangers are secured to the
wooden frame with two to four screws. Hanging can
be more complicated with contemporary paintings
that do not have protective frames. Moving and hanging
unframed or large paintings safely may require the
services of professional art handlers, who may be
reached by calling a local museum, historical society,
or reputable art gallery.
FRAMING
If you intend to buy a new frame for a painting
or have a painting treated by a conservator, take
the opportunity to have it properly framed. Ideally,
a painting should be held in the frame with mending
plates that are attached to the frame with screws.
Brass mending plates can be bent and adjusted so
there is light pressure on the back of the stretcher
or strainer. Sometimes nails are used to frame paintings,
but nails can rust, fall out, or protrude through
the canvas. Ask the framer or conservator to pad
the rabbet, the part of the frame that touches the
face of the painting, with felt or another suitable
material to protect the image.
HOUSEKEEPING GUIDELINES
After carefully examining your paintings for loose
or flaking paint, dust them every four to six months.
Feather dusters can scratch paintings. Instead use
soft, white-bristle Japanese brushes, sable (such
as a typical makeup brush), or badger-hair brushes
(called "blenders" and used for faux finishes).
Never try to clean a painting yourself or use any
liquid or commercial cleaners on a painted surface.
Commercial preparations can cause irreparable damage
to the fragile layers of a painting. Avoid using
pesticides, foggers, air fresheners, or furniture
sprays near artworks. Remove paintings from a room
before painting, plastering, or steam cleaning carpets
or wallpaper. Return the artworks only when the
walls and floors are completely dry.
DISASTERS AND OTHER PROBLEMS
If a disaster such as a flood or fire occurs in
your home, remove paintings from standing water
or debris. If the paint is flaking, lay the painting
flat with the image side up to limit paint loss.
Consult a professional conservator as soon as possible
for assistance in limiting damage to your artwork.
Wiping smoke, mud, or other contaminants from a
painting may result in additional damage.
Other problems will require the help of a professional
conservator. Insect infestation, flaking paint,
paint loss, torn canvas, cracks with lifting edges
or planar distortions (wrinkles or draws in the
canvas), mold growth, grime, or very discolored
varnish are problems that only a professional conservator
is trained to address.
NOTE
This brochure is provided courtesy of the Aryan
Art Gallery.The recommendations in this brochure
are intended as guidance only, and AAG does not
assume responsibility or liability. |